FLEXITEEK PROBLEMS: SOME TESTS

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FLEXITEEK PROBLEMS: A TEST FOR THE MOST SCREWED


Natural or synthetic teak? This question has become commonplace for boat owners. While initially, with the introduction of the first synthetic materials designed for boat decks, the answer leaned towards natural wood, now, with the marketing of new technologies and cutting-edge products, the trend has completely reversed.

On the one hand, there is the ecological aspect (deforestation has reached unacceptable levels); on the other hand, considerations regarding maintenance and product durability are leading an increasing number of boat owners to choose synthetic teak for their own vessels.

In order to better understand the reactions of synthetic teak to typical situations that can occur on board, such as the dispersion of staining products on the surface and impact damage, we have decided to simulate such events and document them for you.

FLEXITEEK: LOOKING FOR TROUBLE


The first question we asked ourselves was: how does Flexiteek 2G react to the "attacks" of the most common staining products that are more easily absorbed by traditional wood?

To do this, we simulated some situations that, on natural teak decks, would require lengthy cleaning operations and difficult maintenance to restore normal conditions or that, on occasion, would have irreparably compromised the material.

TESTING PROBLEM LIQUIDS

Our first test consisted of pouring onto Flexiteek 2G all the liquids that are commonly, and absentmindedly, poured onto the decks of ships.

As a result, much to our surprise, items such as coffee, red wine, hand lotion, cooking oil, fuel, and grease, if removed immediately with a simple cloth or rinsed off, leave no stain.

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PROLONGED EXPOSURE TO DEGRADING AGENTS

Next, we also considered the case where these products remain on the surface for a longer period and dry out. What would happen, and what should be done?

We found that with Flexiteek 2G, simply cleaning the residue left by the drying agent with a mild detergent (in our case, a universal degreaser) is enough. With a scouring pad or gentle rubbing, the material will return to its original condition.

A degreaser would have stained the natural teak, but in our case, it has been the "remedy," without removing even a centimeter of the material's surface layer.

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EXTREME CLEANING WITH SOLVENT

It did not resist any type of stain, and in case of spilling a more aggressive product, you can even use nail polish remover.

Fully aware of the potential effects of such an action on the natural wood—namely, the stain itself and the fusion of the seams—we poured the dreaded liquid onto our Flexiteek 2G piece. As a result, the nail polish remover eliminated the stain, leaving a slight ring but causing no damage. At that point, with the help of sandpaper, the material was restored to its original state and, most importantly, regained its original color, which saved us from having to treat the surrounding areas to even out the finish.

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DAMAGE AND REPAIR OF MATERIAL

Repair of scratches or damage caused by impacts from objects
Another concern for teak deck owners relates to the potential fall of sharp or heavy objects that could create holes or excavations in the deck, as well as the case of objects dragged across the deck that could cause real canyon-shaped grooves.

To simulate these situations, we drilled a piece of Flexiteek 2G with the tip of a screwdriver. During this operation, we realized how difficult it is to scratch the material and leave a visible mark compared to natural teak.

In fact, the rubbery composition of the material absorbs and elastically distributes pressure over a wider surface.

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On a natural wood deck, this type of damage would require replacing the entire slat; with Flexiteek 2G, however, this operation is quite simple. In fact, you only need to fill the hole with a new material of the same color.

The repair kit consists of Flexiteek filament (approximately 4 mm in diameter) and a glue gun. Simply heat the filament, melt it, and apply it to the damaged surface; a gentle application with a spatula will be sufficient to smooth the surface (for more severe damage, the process should be repeated several times with parallel applications).

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Once the added material has cooled, simply sand gently, always parallel to the offset.

In this case, we also observed that it is not necessary to sand the entire surface to achieve a uniform color.

Sanding is recommended if there are any lines or small grooves. Unlike natural wood, this material does not wear down from repeated cleaning or exposure to the elements. This is very important because, unlike natural teak, this material allows you to maintain the same deck width or even replace it after a few years.

CONCLUSIONS


Flexiteek has passed all the tests!

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